Esmeralda has several different tracts of land and they have learned that the geisha varietal produces varying flavor results depending where on their property they grow it. Even small variations in elevation and soil structure seem to make significant changes to the cup profile. The traditional, award winning Esmeralda Special comes from the area known as Mario. The Mario field lies between 1500 and 1650 meters (4920 to 5420 feet) in the Jaramillo region of Boquete. This year, Mario was harvested three times and each picking was given a special name:

• Mario Carnaval was picked in February.
• Mario San Jose, named after a patron saint, was picked in March.
• Mario Pascua, so named for Easter's month (Pascua in Spanish), was picked in April.

Mario Pascua, the late harvest offering that hung on the trees longest to mature and sweeten, was our top choice. On May 19th, shortly after winning the Best of Panama competition, Hacienda Esmeralda conducted a private auction, offering their entire output to private bidders from coffee companies around the world. In addition to the three Mario lots, there were four other production areas of their farm offered as well, in total seven distinct groups, broken into forty-seven lots, each three hundred pounds. That's it, the entire production of the farm, except for a separate three hundred pounds, the winning lot from the Best of Panama competition, sold at a separate BOP auction.

Last year the amount of coffee from Hacienda Esmeralda, as well as other farms throughout Panama, were only about half the ordinary amount. (This was true for much of Costa Rica and Colombia too). Significant rainfall kept the crop size down, but fortunately, quality was very high. As one might expect, with the supply cut in half and demand constant that prices rose considerably. Yes, the already expensive Hacienda Esmeralda Special coffee is even more so this year. Despite recession, worldwide bidding for the coffee was aggressive and if you wanted some you simply had to pay up for it, which we did.

Like last year, the coffee came to us in vacuum packaging. When each vacuum package is opened, the contents are transferred to sealed, polypropylene pouches and that is how you will receive the coffee. So, dig deep and pick some up while it is available.

The 2010 Esmeralda auction was just held but that coffee will not be available in the US until middle to end of June. As expensive as this coffee may seem, the 2010 is one and a half times as much. Get this now while it is still fresh, vibrant and a relatively good albeit admittedly pricey deal.

Please note this is a 12 ounce package.

Cup Characteristics: Super fruity and floral, redolent with lemons, jasmine and heady scents and tastes. Esmeralda describes as 'Mandarin oranges, jasmine and sugar cane are some of the late harvest cupping notes'. A bouquet that presents itself immediately in ground, then enlivened during brewing. The coffee has both power and delicacy. You know those flavors and scents are present, yet none of the overpower you or one another, presenting a harmonious unity.

Hacienda Esmeralda is Rainforest Alliance Certified.

Award night in Panama with The Peterson's of Hacienda La Esmeralda. Clockwise: Bob Williams, Price, Rachel and Susan Peterson, Barry Levine, Daniel Peterson.